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jordank
Joined: 03 Apr 2008
Posts: 43
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
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 Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:52 am Post subject: Chassis rebuild and a question on pressing ball-joints |
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Thought I'd post some pics of the pan rebuild, last coat of paint went on this weekend. New floorpans were welded on, por-15 applied, seam sealer, etc.
Had a broken bolt in one of the shock towers at the back, and my extractor tool broke inside it while i was trying to pull it out. Had to drill around it (cant' drill through the hardened steel of the extractor tool), and pull the whole bit out. The hole left was pretty big, but just the right size for a flared 10mm nut, which I pressed in there, then welded around into the cast iron surrounds. Came out pretty well, considering.
question - anyone know who locally can press new ball-joints in for me?
| Description: |
| the 10mm nut welded into the rear shock tower, and cleaned up. |
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| Description: |
| new pans welded in, stripped of paint, and getting por-15 metal ready on them. |
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| Description: |
| chassis with the old pans cut out, and new ones trial fitted. |
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JordanK, CDA
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1964 Beetle
1958 Karmann Ghia
1957 Beetle |
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jordank
Joined: 03 Apr 2008
Posts: 43
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
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| Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:53 am Post subject: |
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more pics
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| pan painted, and ready to start receiving the suspension parts |
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63.82 KB |
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| Description: |
| shock tower after painting |
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14930 Time(s) |
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JordanK, CDA
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1964 Beetle
1958 Karmann Ghia
1957 Beetle |
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jengel451
Joined: 11 Jun 2007
Posts: 232
Location: Greenacres, WA (yeah, like the show)
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| Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:01 am Post subject: |
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| Very nice, I may want to see that in person. the Por15 looks way better than I would have thought, I may go that route rather than powder coating.
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jordank
Joined: 03 Apr 2008
Posts: 43
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
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| Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:06 am Post subject: |
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| jengel451 wrote: | | Very nice, I may want to see that in person. the Por15 looks way better than I would have thought, I may go that route rather than powder coating. |
yeah, I was skeptical on the por-15, but after spending hours on the samba reading other people's experiences - decided to try it out. I am going to spray some rubber undercoat on the bottom of the pan (mostly for a little bit of sound deadening), and spray some rattle-can enamel on the front/rear suspension parts and horns (por-15 is apparently sensitive to UV light, and though I doubt sun would ever see under the body - better safe than sorry)
If you're passing through CDA and want to have a look, let me know, I'm close to downtown there.
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JordanK, CDA
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1964 Beetle
1958 Karmann Ghia
1957 Beetle |
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jengel451
Joined: 11 Jun 2007
Posts: 232
Location: Greenacres, WA (yeah, like the show)
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| Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:39 am Post subject: |
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Cool, been searching Samba too, but glad you did it first so I can see for myself. Thanks for being the lab rat!
For sound, i'm going to go the dynamat route, not cheap, but I know that type of material works really well.
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motofly196
Joined: 23 Jun 2008
Posts: 442
Location: Medical Lake
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| Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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I just did the same thing, except that it was in my 1981 GMC Jimmy Fullsize. The POR 15 goes on really nice! I just used a paint brush...that stuff didn't even leave brush marks! After I finished with that, I topcoated with Herculiner (like Rhino Lining, but you roll it on). That would definately be a better way to go than using undercoating.
Scott
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jordank
Joined: 03 Apr 2008
Posts: 43
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
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| Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 3:01 pm Post subject: |
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| motofly196 wrote: | I just did the same thing, except that it was in my 1981 GMC Jimmy Fullsize. The POR 15 goes on really nice! I just used a paint brush...that stuff didn't even leave brush marks! After I finished with that, I topcoated with Herculiner (like Rhino Lining, but you roll it on). That would definately be a better way to go than using undercoating.
Scott |
I think I saw Herculiner at Napa, I'll check it out. I'm def thinking of the dynamat s well, on the inside of the floor pans, inside the quarter panels, doors, wheel wells, and the trunk area. I am concerned about the amount of weight it adds to the car though - that stuff is HEAVY. It would be like riding around with an extra person in the car all the time... 
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JordanK, CDA
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1964 Beetle
1958 Karmann Ghia
1957 Beetle |
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CustomVW
Joined: 13 Oct 2006
Posts: 323
Location: Hillyard off market st. and gordon
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| Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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por is fantastic stuff, as long as you don't breath it 
BTW, I press ball joints.
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jordank
Joined: 03 Apr 2008
Posts: 43
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
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| Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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| CustomVW wrote: | por is fantastic stuff, as long as you don't breath it
BTW, I press ball joints. |
Great, I'll be stopping by next week sometime, most likely. Now, I do have CB performance dropped spindles - do I need to get the 'lowered' ball joints, or would standard ones work? I may end up dropping it a little further with the adjusters, depending on the ride quality and look, but I don't expect it to be anything more than 0.5-1" more, at max.
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JordanK, CDA
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1964 Beetle
1958 Karmann Ghia
1957 Beetle |
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Troy Hobbs
Joined: 05 Aug 2003
Posts: 766
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| Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 5:40 am Post subject: Chassis rebuild and a question on pressing ball-joints |
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Stock ball joints with drop spindles. The spindle moves on the nuckle to lower the car, the rest of the geometry stays stock. The little you plan on going with the beam adjustment doesn't warrant the extra travel ball joints.
Also , POR makes a chassis paint to go over the 15 to protect from the UV's
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jengel451
Joined: 11 Jun 2007
Posts: 232
Location: Greenacres, WA (yeah, like the show)
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| Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:13 am Post subject: |
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Was just going to mention that. I may spray the POR as well, get a couple cheap throw away guns and go for it.
Now who wants to show up for the body lift?
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jordank
Joined: 03 Apr 2008
Posts: 43
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
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| Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:43 am Post subject: |
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| jengel451 wrote: | Was just going to mention that. I may spray the POR as well, get a couple cheap throw away guns and go for it.
Now who wants to show up for the body lift? |
I used some of those sponge disposable brushes, $4 a set at Home Depot. It went on very easy, and dries extremely smooth. Plus you can force it into corners and seams a lot better with the brush. I would say spraying it is not needed, personally.
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JordanK, CDA
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1964 Beetle
1958 Karmann Ghia
1957 Beetle |
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CustomVW
Joined: 13 Oct 2006
Posts: 323
Location: Hillyard off market st. and gordon
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| Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 9:58 am Post subject: |
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| We've used spayers for it, application is smooth, and fast, cleanup is easy when it's just a spray gun, and some plastic sheeting. You do have to thin it 50/50 though.
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Chris
Joined: 22 Feb 2009
Posts: 100
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| Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 6:45 pm Post subject: using dynamat |
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The dynamat stuff is great. I used it on the engine lid of my squareback and because of the weight of the dynamat I painted all around the engine lid with undercoating and then used that felt with space blanket material on top of everything. Worked like a charm.
I am going to cut out squares of the dynamat for behind the interior panels. If you get a chance check out sounds on wheels they have a display of the stuff with a small bell with a small piece of dynamat stuck to it and the bell is really muted. Beside being heavy the stuff is expensive also.
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