Getting Ready To Rebuild

[Carl_H]

Hey all. First off, let me start by saying that I am new to the site/club. I have been a Beetle fan for over 10 years now and restored a 1976 Super Beetle about 10 years ago, minus doing anything to the motor.

I just recently purchased a 1970 beetle and come to find out that it has a 1965 1200 in it. I purchased a 71-73 1600 (AE) and I am getting ready to rebuild it.

Are there any pitfalls / warning / special attention stuff that I need to be looking out for during the rebuild. Never put a VW motor together before and I have purchased a manual on how to do the rebuild, but just wondering if there is any extra info that you can pass along to a newbie in this situation.

Thanks for everything!

Carl

[Doodoob]

Can you give us a little more info of what you are wanting to build? Such as a daily driver, strip car, economy, budget?

[Carl_H]

The car is going to be a daily driver but I will need the ability to hit freeway speeds of 70 (and maintain). I am pretty much building the 1600 back to stock but I was told that if I put in cams with a 1.25 to 1 lift (instead of the stock 1.1 to 1) I can get as much as 10% more horsepower out of it (is that true??)

Should I dual off the carbs or stay with the single carb?

This is my first VW rebuild and I am very excited to get going on it. Thanks for any help that you can pass along to this newbie.

Carl

[Doodoob]

If you are wanting to stay relatively stock I woul take it to a 1641, go dual Kadrons, mild cam, get straight cut gears, lightened fly wheel, stock rockers(bolt together kit), get a electronic ignition module(petronix or compu fire), maybe throw in a street fire ignition box. I would full flow it with and external filter, get a descent header, and a phat boy muffler. This is how I was running my 67 in Las Vegas till my deep sump cracked and I went up to a 1914.

[Carl_H]

Thanks for the heads up. I already ordered most of the rebuild kit and it will remain a 1600 (unfortunately, now). All the other stuff I will definitely keep in mind so let me say THANK YOU!!

What kind of gas mileage am I looking at with dual carbs? Right now I am somewhere between 29-31 MPG.

[Doodoob]

It all depends on how heavy your foot is............too many variables for me to guess. I am by know means an expert.............good luck and keep us posted.

[Bad Bug Two]

[Carl_H]

Ok, I am getting ready to buy the camshaft and I was wondering if there is an advantage between the riveted or bolt-on gear. I have the lift and duration that I am after already.

Eagle Racing Cam - Adv. Duration 276° / Dur. @ .050" 234° / Lift @ cam .380" / Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .417"

Even though it is a "racing" cam, it has a balance between low and mid ranges on the RPM.

With my Bug only being around 1800 lbs, should I get something with a better mid to top end range (as it don't take much to get a light vehicle going)?

Once again, thanks for any info you can provide!

Carl (aka The Newbie)

[dssbk]

Before you go ahead and start purchasing parts you should inspect the rest of your engine.
What does your case look like?
Does it need a line bore or did it shuffle? If so, I would start looking for a case.
What does your crank and rods look like?
I would get a counter weighted crank and maybe even go with a 74 or 76 stroke (for more displacement)
Are you replacing pistons and cylinders?
I would go with the 87mm kit (no machining)
87x74=1760cc or 87x76=1807
If you are not upgrading your heads, carb or exhaust, I dont think installing a bigger cam would make a difference. If your heads can't flow, all that lift won't matter.
I would check and make sure everything is good shape before spending a bunch of money or you will be spending more than you want to.
Make sure to replace your lifters when you replace your cam, and make sure to break it in properly.

[Carl_H]

I purchased a case and it has been inspected and is viable. I am also rebuilding the carb. The heads are being reworked as we speak with all new valves and springs. Scat lifters have been purchased, I have new pushrods and a new fuel pump. I bought a stock rebuild kit (85.5 pistons and cylinders, counterweighted / balanced crank, new pushrods, etc.) I yet to but the camshaft, exhaust, engine chrome kit, all that.

What is the "stock" lift and duration of the cam? Just looking for input before I buy it. Thanks again.

[Carl_H]

I purchased a case and it has been inspected and is viable. I am also rebuilding the carb. The heads are being reworked as we speak with all new valves and springs. Scat lifters have been purchased, I have new pushrods and a new fuel pump. I bought a stock rebuild kit (85.5 pistons and cylinders, counterweighted / balanced crank, new pushrods, etc.) I yet to but the camshaft, exhaust, engine chrome kit, all that.

What is the "stock" lift and duration of the cam? Just looking for input before I buy it. Thanks again.

[dssbk]

Sounds like you have all your bases covered...good job.

I would run an Engle W-100 camshaft, since you are building a small displacement engine or a W-110 at the most.

Part# 6100 W-100

Application:
Street & Dune Buggy, Sand Rail, Vans, Small Displacement Engines
Power Range:
1000-5000 RPM
Specs:
IN .479”@1.25:1 /.420”1.1:1 .383"@CAM 276°ADV 236°@.050 108°L/C
EX .479”@1.25:1 /.420”1.1:1 .383"@CAM 276°ADV 236°@.050

[ONEBADBUG]

[Carl_H]

The W-100 camshaft looks great. My next question:

Is there an advantage between bolt-on or riveted camshaft gear, one way or the other?

[dssbk]

I have always used the bolt on gears with straight cuts. I think the only advantage, is adjustable cam timing.